Devils Tower: Wyoming's Volcanic Monolith

Devils Tower is an igneous intrusion (laccolith) rising 265 meters (867 feet) above the Belle Fourche River in the Black Hills region of northeastern Wyoming. The tower's distinctive columnar jointing — hundreds of parallel columns of phonolite porphyry, some over 180 meters long — makes it one of the most geologically striking landmarks in North America. On September 24, 1906, President Theodore Roosevelt designated it the first United States National Monument.

Introduction

Located at coordinates 44.5902°N, 104.7146°W at an elevation of 1,558 meters (5,112 feet) at its summit, Devils Tower is sacred to numerous Native American tribes, including the Lakota, Cheyenne, and Kiowa, who know it by names including Bear Lodge (Mató Thípila in Lakota). The monolith attracts approximately 500,000 visitors and 5,000 climbers annually.

Geography & Geology

• Height Above River: 265 m (867 ft)
• Summit Elevation: 1,558 m (5,112 ft)
• Summit Area: ~6,000 m² (1.5 acres)
• Rock Type: Phonolite porphyry

Devils Tower was formed approximately 50 million years ago during the Eocene Epoch when magma intruded into the surrounding sedimentary rocks but did not reach the surface. Over millions of years, the softer sedimentary layers eroded away, exposing the much harder igneous core. The exact mechanism of formation is still debated — some geologists argue it is the neck of an extinct volcano, while others classify it as a laccolith (a dome-shaped intrusion).

The tower's most distinctive feature is its columnar jointing — hundreds of roughly hexagonal columns formed as the molten rock cooled and contracted. The columns average 1.2 to 1.8 meters in diameter and some extend over 180 meters from base to summit. The tower's flat summit covers approximately 6,000 square meters (1.5 acres) and is covered with native grasses, sagebrush, and prickly pear cactus — a tiny isolated ecosystem.

Cultural & Sacred Significance

• Native American Names: Bear Lodge (Lakota), Bear's Tipi (Cheyenne)
• Tribes with Connections: Over 20 tribes
• Voluntary Climbing Closure: June (sacred ceremonies)
• National Monument: First US National Monument, 1906

Devils Tower is sacred to more than 20 Native American tribes, many of whom have creation stories connected to the tower. The most widely shared tells of girls who climbed a tree stump to escape a giant bear; the stump grew into the tower, and the bear's claw marks became the columnar striations. The Lakota, Cheyenne, Kiowa, Crow, and Arapaho all hold ceremonies at the site.

The National Park Service has implemented a voluntary climbing closure during June, when many tribes conduct ceremonies at the tower's base. Approximately 85 percent of climbers voluntarily refrain from climbing during this period. The name "Devils Tower" itself is contested — many Native groups and some legislators have advocated renaming it "Bear Lodge" to reflect its indigenous heritage.

Climbing History

• First Ascent: July 4, 1893 by William Rogers and Willard Ripley
• Climbers Annually: ~5,000
• Routes: Over 200 established climbing routes
• Technical Rating: 5.7–5.13 (mostly crack climbing)

The first recorded ascent of Devils Tower was on July 4, 1893, when local ranchers William Rogers and Willard Ripley climbed a wooden ladder they had pounded into a continuous crack on the southeast side. Portions of their ladder are still visible. Technical rock climbing on the tower began in 1937, and today there are over 200 established routes.

The columnar jointing creates parallel crack systems ideal for traditional (protection-placed) rock climbing. Routes range from 5.7 to 5.13 in difficulty. The Durrance Route (5.6), first climbed in 1938, is the most popular. Approximately 5,000 people summit the tower annually, and the National Park Service requires all climbers to register. Peregrine falcon nesting closures periodically restrict certain routes from April through August.

Visitor Information

• Annual Visitors: ~500,000
• Monument Area: 5.45 km² (1,347 acres)
• Tower Trail: 2 km paved loop around the base
• Nearest Town: Sundance, WY (45 km)

Devils Tower National Monument covers 5.45 square kilometers of mixed-grass prairie, pine forest, and the Belle Fourche River corridor. The 2-kilometer Tower Trail is a paved loop around the tower's base, offering close-up views of the columnar jointing and access to boulder fields of fallen columns. Prairie dogs inhabit a large town near the park entrance, and white-tailed deer, wild turkeys, and various raptors are commonly sighted.

The monument is located in remote northeastern Wyoming, approximately 45 kilometers from Sundance and 160 kilometers from Rapid City, South Dakota. The park has a small campground and picnic area but no lodging. Summer months (June through August) see the highest visitation, though the tower is spectacular in all seasons, including winter when snow highlights the columnar structure.

Key Facts

• Devils Tower rises 265 meters above the Belle Fourche River.
• The phonolite porphyry columns average 1.2–1.8 meters in diameter.
• It was designated the first US National Monument in 1906 by Theodore Roosevelt.
• The tower is sacred to more than 20 Native American tribes.
• Approximately 5,000 climbers summit the tower annually via 200+ routes.

Fun Facts

• Devils Tower became famous in popular culture as the alien landing site in Steven Spielberg's 1977 film "Close Encounters of the Third Kind."
• The flat summit supports a tiny ecosystem including native grasses, sagebrush, prickly pear cactus, and visiting rodents.
• In 1941, parachutist George Hopkins landed on the summit but was stranded for six days before a climbing team could rescue him.
• The columns are not perfectly hexagonal — they range from four to seven sides, with five and six sides being most common.

Final Thoughts

Devils Tower is a geological enigma wrapped in cultural significance. Its striking columnar jointing, its sacred status for Native American tribes, and its history as the nation's first National Monument make it one of the most multifaceted landmarks in the American West.